Savour the Flavour

A week or so on from my epic walk-about and I'm left with the flavours of my experiences lingering in my mind like a rich and perfectly balanced meal lingers in the mouth. It was a time that has profoundly affected me in a way that I was not expecting. I was expecting a fun adventure with some amazing views and memorable encounters with nature. Of course I had all of that but what I dared not hope for was a deep and soul-refreshing mini-sabbatical!

The 'wild' has long offered such enriching encounters. Celtic Monks used to seek out wild places in which to get closer to the creator. They would head to places where nothing had a name, no roads, farms or houses. In the towns and villages from which they sought to escape everything had a name which related to a past event or person. In the great nameless wild they felt further from the time and place and closer to God. 

Obviously I didn't go to quite such extremes but the isolation and the hills did wonders for me. It took a few days to find a new rhythm of thought and routine but once in the groove I found a new way of being. Someone close to me has since remarked "Before the walk you were not yourself but your walk has done you the world of good, Remember your wow moments on your hard days. Never forget who Jonny is". So it wasn't just me. it really did make a difference!

So... other than some careful planning and some great weather I have since wondered what were the ingredients which had come together to form this feast for the soul? Some flavours remain a mystery still and I swill them around my mind trying to place them (a closely guarded secret of the master chef perhaps?) others I am able to name. A couple are toil & reward, separation & solitude. 



Toil & reward: walking 20 or more miles per day with a heavy pack was pretty tough. My feet were bruised, I had blisters, my knees ached and so did my hips. On each of the days there were moments of questioning why on earth I was doing it, moments were I thought I couldn't take another step. What I found beautiful though was that the level of toil put in was linked directly to the level of pleasure and enjoyment at reaching a camp site, resting, preparing a meal and perhaps being given a beer. So on the very same day that I'd wanted to throw in the towel I'd later be resting with a meal and a tent in the most beautiful surroundings feeling that I must be so blessed to be on this the holiday of a life time! 

Separation & solitude: It took several days for the windmills of my mind to slow and stop but stop they did. My thoughts were absorbed with the route, the view and the surroundings. In my everyday life I am constantly asked questions, all day long. This is fine and is a result of choices I've willing taken but it takes it's toll. To me apart from all of this was bliss. It brought a peace and calmness that still lingers now. I now know how to find that again and will be planning some mini escapes to the 'wild' and perhaps another long walk in the future. the West Highland Way perhaps...

Last leg(s)

I have walked 90 miles, crossed from Western to Eastern Hemisphere, through 3 counties, crossed 5 major rivers, used 4 different OS maps, eaten 13 rehydrated meals and stayed at 4 campsites and 1 B&B. And now I'm ready to come home!

The walk today was fantastic, the eastern downs living up to their reputation but I have blisters on my blisters (photos available on request) and everything hurts.

I have a short 10 mile walk down into Eastbourne tomorrow where I plan to savour the moment for a while before heading back by train.

I'm nursing my aches with a pint of Dark Star at the George in Alfriston before heading back to my little tent for one last cosy night under canvas.

Here's to the little things

I have my home on my back and I move very slowly. I  am essentially a snail for a week!

Knowing that every item that went into my pack increased its weight and therefore the bruising and blisters on my feet, forced me to consider very carefully what made the cut. This means I have no luxuries save a book and some binoculars, everything else is needed for health, hygiene or home. Living like this has the effect of amplifying any little treat or comfort, bringing the broadest of grins.

There was my beer given to me by Nancy at Buncton Manor Farm and the bananas and brownie from Gordon (someone else may have had a hand in making the Brownies).

Today I thought I was lost looking for my campsite. Whilst scouting around for places to 'wild camp', panic setting in, I rounded the corner to see "Blackberry Wood Campsite 100yrds" painted on a log - big grin! Tim showed me around including where the all important showers were, gave me some logs, a coke and some sun cream - massive grin! I am now sat at my fire place having eaten rehydrated spag bol with added sausages from the campsite shop and feeling incredibly blessed.

Shortly I will be drinking flat packed filter coffee and reading my book. What luxury!

Magic moments

I'm sitting in my sleeping bag, on a broken garden chair, in a field at the foot of Chanctanbury Hill reflecting on a tough but incredibly rewarding days walking.

Before I left Naomi said she hoped I'd have lots of "moments". I knew exactly what she meant and I really have. I've had moments with people. Breakfast with a fellow walker. A mum of two who hadn't done much walking but wanted to do something different. An old and dear friend Gordon who abandoned his work for the day to come and join me. He cycled out searching for me and found me at Houghton where we continued on together until he had to shoot back to collect his son.

Another moment was spent watching a Red Kite acrobatically diving and soaring as if an expert power kite flyer was at the other end of two strings attached to the bird. Another was in the porta-shower on the campsite in which I went from cursing it as I braced myself for an ice cold shower to  declaring my undying love for it as the piping hot water came through.

The reality is there have been so many moments. Some of shear joy and euphoria others of wonder and a few of pain. I wonder, what will they all add up to.

Tomorrow is another long day - 30k this time. I hope my feet and legs can take it!

Pilgrims progress

So far I have walked for 2 days and covered 35.2 miles, taken over 100 photos and already had many 'moments' that make the hardship worthwhile.

My legs are stiff but not too stiff, my feet are sore but not too sore and I'm tired but not too tired. I've had moments of questioning why on earth I'm putting myself through this but many more moments of magic and awe.

Yesterday started well despite a small hiccup. The original plan was to stay the night in Eastleigh with family but in the end Naomi offered to take me to Winchester on Sunday morning. That gave me all of Saturday to prepare and a wonderful breakfast and send off from the boys who took turns to pray a blessing over me before I set off. What a treat! The hiccup was leaving my gas stove under the car while it cooled and driving off without it. Fortunately all of the early morning view-seekers and cyclists were honest or just preoccupied and the stove was still there when I raced back from Winchester.

Leaving the city was like leaving life behind. Noisy, busy and hurried I was pleased to make it quickly to quieter, greener climbs. The sun shone and the views were amazing. I met and chatted to fellow walkers, stopped for a cheeky half and gazed into the crystal clear river Meon.

The last few miles were tough and I was pleased to see the Sustainability Centre where I was to spend my first night. I have taken groups of teenagers there years ago and was welcomed with a "hi Jonny, do you remember me?" I didn't but was soon reminded. The centre is a strange place of hippy throw back charm. I fell to sleep to the sound of a camp fire crackling and a banjo, led folk band playing softly in the distance.

I started early on day 2, partly hoping to avoid the super - friendly geography teacher in the next pitch and partly wanting to get a few miles under my belt before breakfast. Settting off early was a good move. The hills were covered in fog which gave a strange other-worldliness to the early morning. 

Breakfast was a juxtaposition of the beautiful surroundings of the Queen Elizabeth County Park and the unpleasant taste of rehydrated bacon, eggs and potatoes.

More amazing views, peaceful woodland paths and people to chat. One highlight was spending 10 mintues watching a Red Kite sore effortlessly in the field next to the Way. Another highlight was being offered a warm bed for the night by an old friend at The Moonlight Cafe in Cocking. Having got wet, cold and tired this offer felt like salvation. Obviously it would have been a little rude to prepare my ration - pack meal in my room so I just had to head to the local pub for a meal and pint. More salvation!

Tomorrow will be a long hard day. 22 miles on already beaten up feet. Bring it on!